Over the past 3 years I have brought home many Ghanaian crafts-masks, woodwork, fabric, beads, pottery, baskets. My house is beginning to look like an African museum-wait till you see it next year! Nancy and I had the opportunity to experience three of these crafts in more detail.
BATIK- Through an organization I like called Global Mamas, I signed us up for a 3 hour Batik lesson during our visit to Cape Coast.(Global Mamas is a ‘free trade’ non-profit that supports Ghanaian women-run small businesses www.Globalmamas.org) I remember doing tye-dye in the 70s with my mom and I remember it involved wax and dye and t-shirts and a mess…that was basically what I understood Batik to be.
Georgina and her husband met us at the Global Mamas store and we drove to a house somewhat similar to mine on the grounds of a well known girls boarding school. Georgina is a 52 year old teacher of ‘visual arts’ (batik weaving, etc). As we entered her home small curious eyes peered around the corners (she was caring for 3 younger children and had 3 older ones of her own). We were taken out to a back porch work area for our ‘lesson’. An older son started a huge pot of water on an open fire for her while chickens and turkeys wandered by. On another ‘coal pot’ wax was melting. Georgina explained all of the chemicals and ingredients that are mixed with the dye. We were each given a 2 yard piece of white cotton sheet.
We chose our stamps and I went first. All you do is dip the stamp in the wax and press it down-no problem, right? Well I consider myself fairly ‘crafty’ but I felt like a 7 year old! I was too slow, I dripped wax, and my work was crooked, but I was having fun. Georgina and her helper applauded when I finally made a stamp without dripping!
At one point (out of pity and to hurry things up) Georgina took my stamps and did a few rows for me. Nancy had more success but only slightly. I think Georgina got a kick of how slow we were! As we were struggling for a sub-par product, Georgina’s helper was rapidly creating a beautiful batik next to us.
When we were finally finished stamping it was time for the dyeing , setting ,washing and drying processes. We were only using one color-you can imagine what’s involved in multicolor pieces!
We couldn’t believe the time and steps and effort it takes to produce one piece that sells for about 2$ a yard. Nancy and I both have a new appreciation for these beautiful fabrics and we were proud of our final products!
KENTE Kente cloth is seen in the US and most of you would recognize it-but do you know how it’s made? Up in the mountains of the Volta region there is a small village, Kpetoe, where a lot of Kente weaving is done. Once in Kpetoe, we visited a place I’d been to before where about 20 weavers work. We were free to talk to the weavers (all men)and even got to try our hands (and feet) at the looms.
Kente is woven in long strips which can then be cut and worn around the neck, or sewn together for larger pieces which are usually worn or used decoratively. I was told it takes 2-3 days to set up the threads before weaving even begins. The amount of work that goes into each piece is amazing.
BEADS I’ve talked about beads before and shown some pictures from the bead market. I wanted to take Nancy to the area where many of these beads were made and show her the process of bead making. The second to last ‘sight’ I took Nancy to was the Wli Waterfall which is about 4 hours from Tema up in the Volta Region.
We spent the morning there and then headed back down out of the mountains through small villages. It was early enough so we had planned to stop at ‘Cedi Beads’ a large compound of huts and buildings and workshops in Krobo where most of the glass and painted beads of Ghana are made.
About an hour into our trip it started to rain. About an hour and 15 minutes into our trip it started to REALLY rain (The rainy season has arrived). There are several things about driving in the pouring rain in Ghana that are difficult…First, we didn’t have air conditioning in the car (It had broken earlier in the trip) but because of the pouring rain, the windows had to be up except for cracks to let in cool air, so the windows fogged up. Next, the road’s potholes (which only get filled with dirt when repaired) were filled with water, and determining their depth was impossible. Finally, the other vehicles we drove on the road with were usually driving too fast and not really concerned with the rain.
Several(is harrowing too strong of a word?) hours later it was still raining when we reached the road that lead to the bead factory. We were ready to bag it but our driver Johnny, who had been great all week and knew everything about everything, declared that we had to take Nancy to Cedi Beads and not to worry because the beaders live there so they’d all be around rain or no rain.
How can I describe the final turn off to Cedi? The bumpy dirt and rock road had large rivulets or ruts that had been formed by the rain. Johnny drove carefully over the bumps and 'rivers' often grinding the underside of the car in the mud. Once our tires spun a bit in the mud but we moved on. Both of us were thinking the same thing…how in the world will we get back to the main road if it keeps raining? We continued about a mile down this road to Cedi.
Once there, an elderly Mr. Cedi took us to a covered area used for demonstrations of the process. Even though it was only about 4 PM it was fairly dark. Mr. Cedi explained there was no power ‘lights out’ as Ghanaians call it. Nevertheless he was determined to give us the talk and show us all of the steps to bead making…in the dark…as it rained….He showed us how the glass was ground and poured into molds. He took us to the ovens and where they polished the beads.
Finally he took us to his shop. The shop was full of beautiful necklaces and bracelets most for a dollar or two each. One small problem-it was ‘lights out’! We couldn't see a thing! Well Mr. Cedi pulled out his torch (flashlight) and we shopped by ‘torch light’ laughing as we did and wondering if we were going to be spending the night there when our car couldn’t get out. Mr. Cedi told us not to worry. The car would get out no problem. We guessed the workers would all push us if necessary.We didn’t get stuck and we made it back in one soggy piece. Once home, we took our (cold) showers and I made spaghetti with spices from Rome and we ate bread we bought on the side of the road coming home. Long day-we slept well!
Happy 24th Bday Eric! Love, Mom
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